Amidst Watches & Wonders 2024 – the busiest week of the watch industry’s calendar, Sotheby’s and self-proclaimed “outcast” watch magazine, Heist-Out will host an underground live watch auction. Aiming a shine a light on rare, avant-garde vintage timepieces or forgotten bejewelled relics of the past, ‘Rough Diamonds’ auction will be held on April 11th at La Corne à Vin, 47 bis Rue de Lausanne, a wine cellar in Geneva with estimates ranging from CHF 2,000 ($2,275) to CHF 100,000 ($113,770). Prior to this, a bespoke public exhibition curated by Heist-Out will take place from April 8th to 10th.

‘Rough Diamonds’ will feature 24 unconventional, counter-culture timepieces. These timepieces, much like natural diamonds and jewels, are waiting for their time to shine and be rediscovered – hence, the title. In a statement, Josh Pullman, Global Head of Sotheby’s Luxury Division says, “Rough Diamonds strives to create a new auction concept for the market – focusing on unusually remarkable timepieces, curated to excite vintage watch aficionados the world over”. Sotheby’s and Heist-Out believe that novelties of such unique flair are often overlooked by collectors. Handpicked by Sotheby’s specialists, these 24 novelties include obscure references from top-tier brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Jeager-LeCoultre, Piaget, and many more.

Sotheby’s believes that watch enthusiasts are tired of modern, sports steel watches. On the other hand, vintage watch collecting has enjoyed a resurgence as collectors are eagerly seeking unique, heritage-wrapped pieces as a new means to express themselves. Rough Diamonds will showcase the rare, unconventional, and forgotten wonders of watchmaking – striving to capture the imagination of vintage watch aficionados and new collectors alike.

How did these 24 timepieces make the cut?

Sotheby’s and Heist-Out finalised on specifically 24 timepieces as the number represents the total hours in a day. Furthermore, each novelty was developed over 30 years ago, with some jewelled stunners dating back to the early 1950s. They celebrate the master-craftsmanship of iconic designers like Charles de Temple, Gilbert Albert, Jacqueline Dimier, and Daryoush Shafa. These haute horlogerie and joaillerie artisans dared to challenge the era’s status quo of watchmaking – breaking free from industry chains and striving to craft novelties exuding authenticity of personality and sheer counter-culture opulence.

Materializing the intersection of heritage and intrinsic value, Sotheby’s confirms these 24 treasures boast two or more of the following attributes: historical significance, notable ownership or provenance, exquisite craftsmanship and rarity, exceptional design innovation, or rare materials.

Based in Geneva, Heist-Out is a watch-centric collective that caters to Gen Z watch-geeks. Co-Founder, Lorenzo Maillard is a globally celebrated watch collector himself. Millard and Co-Founder, Maxime Couturier said in a statement, “Venturing into this project alongside Sotheby’s, the mission was clear from the offset – to create an immersive auction experience. Right from the conceptualization, and curation of the 24 timepieces to the scenography design, Sotheby’s and Heist-Out recognized the potential in disrupting the status quo with a fresh format. In an industry where each new release often melds into the next, it is invigorating to pay homage to the trailblazers of yesteryear and affirm that audacity has always been pivotal in shaping watch design.

Patek Philippe Reference 3290 by Gilbert Albert

Custom-crafted circa 1960 when Albert was the man at the helm for Patek Philippe’s design, its abstractly designed 18K yellow gold bracelet is enriched with blue, turquoise and green cloisonné enamel and sprinkled with pearls. Inside its case, rests a calibre 13.5 which is manually wound. At Geneva’s prestigious “Montres at Bijoux” contest in 1960, this Patek Philippe novelty emerged victorious in two categories – “Jewelry Watch” and “Ladies Watch Without Stones”. This watch comes complete with a necklace and ring, completing a set fit for a modern-day adventurer.

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 50,000 (INR 2,769,729.550 – 4,616,215.917)

Chopard Reference 5029-1 by Augustin Julia-Plana

If the enchanting forests in Alice in Wonderland were created by Swiss horlogerie Gods, they’d look like this. Julia-Plana has always had a profound connection to the materials he works with, and the timepiece under the spotlight exemplifies this artistic distinction. Embracing a hyrdogrossular garnet dial, its 18K cold case is held in place by hand-carved gold links that wind around one’s wrist like branches from a mystical tree. Appearing as fruits on a tree, these polished balls comprise amethyst, coral, citrine, and turquoise stones.

Estimate: CHF 15,000 – 30,000 (INR 14,00,000 – 28,00,000)

Piaget Reference 9212D76 by Jean-Claude Guiet

Exuding the opulence and golden shimmers of ‘70s nightlife, cuff watches have been Piaget’s canvas for creativity – serving as a golden ratio of artistry and craftsmanship. Surged with the legendary ultra-thin 9P calibre, this particular reference boasts a dial crafted from the lapis lazuli, complemented by a bracelet of hand-carved 18K yellow gold (adorned with intricate nephrite and lapis lazuli links).

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000 (INR 19,00,000 – 28,00,000)

Vacheron Constantin Aton, Reference 727709/760

Inspired by the sun god Aton, this VC treasure gleams with celestial elegance. Originating from 1988, its 18K yellow gold, diamond-set bracelet boasts a highly intricate network of links, forming the silhouette of paved sunrays – paying homage to the divine power of Egyptian mythology. Designed by Daryoush Shafa of Vacheron Constantin, he’s hailed for his iconic designs like the Harmony and Diagonal collections, while the Aton stands as his magnum opus. Inside, sits a Calibre 1011 quartz which is encased in 18K yellow gold.

Estimate: CHF 10,000 – 20,000 (INR 10,00,000 – 19,00,000)

Audemars Piguet Baroque

As a gala-special from the ‘90s and designed by Jacqueline Dimier, it takes inspiration from the beauty of orchids. Its marquise-shaped yellow gold case is adorned by a bezel-full of diamonds – the blue topaz glass simply is the cherry on top. Cased in 18K yellow gold, it houses the Quartz calibre 2601 and is strapped with an AP-integrated bracelet.

Estimate: CHF 6,000 – 12,000 (INR 6,00,000 – 12,00,000)

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